First, I must say that this document represents my personal growing methods and observations.  I am a small grower and have the ability to give each plant individual attention.  I imagine most of my customers are potentially small growers and/or collectors as well.  Growing Clivia on is a very personal experience.  For everyone growing a Clivia or two or more, there is an individual growing method.  I am presenting what I do and what works best for me.

Once seedlings have sprouted, they are placed in a mix of approximately 50/50 coco peat and coco chips.  To this mix I add a few handfuls of Perlite.  I don’t actually measure, but would estimate a cup of the Perlite per 2-3 cups of the peat/chips mix.  I have found that young seedlings do better in a mix where the soil is in direct contact with the roots.  Any media used for growing Clivia must be fast draining.  Clivia roots will quickly rot if the moisture content of the growing media is too damp.  I am in a fairly dry climate.  For me, the combination of the chips and peat as well as orchid type pots work well to give me a good growing environment.  Regardless of the type of pot or media, it must drain quickly and leave no standing water at the bottom of the pot.  Most growers will need to experiment a bit to find the combinations of media that work best for them.

Clivia are HEAVY feeders.  This is fairly well documented in the literature available.  You will need to fertilize your plants on a regular basis.  Though we treat Clivia as houseplants, in their native South Africa they are shade garden plants.  For the seedlings, I use a half strength 20-20-20 Miracle grow or other fertilizer that will dissolve in water.  I also use a granular such as Osmocote for orchids as a biannual feeding.  You will also want to make sure that the plants are getting at least an annual feeding of a Calcium and Magnesium product and trace elements.

Seedlings that are too young to bloom do not require a winter rest period and can be grown at normal temperatures all year long.  I have a room of my house dedicated to seedlings.  A series of shelving and grow lights and a small electric heater keep this room in a range of 65-75 degrees year round.  I have a 12 hour on, 12 hours off schedule for the lights.

Once your plants have reached flowering size, they generally will not bloom unless they have approximately 6 weeks of temperatures at or below 50 degrees but above freezing.  Most place plants in the coolest part of the house or in a heated garage.  While the plants are “resting” you will need to cut back on watering, watering just enough to keep the foliage from wilting.  For me, finding a place to give the plants the chill required for bloom has been the most difficult part of growing the plants.  Once you see bud formation beginning in the center of the plant, it is time to bring it into the warmth of the house to enjoy the blooms.

Many growers use a dose of potassium in the late summer and fall to help with the elongation of the peduncle above the crown of the plant.  I did try this on the one blooming plant I have here in the USA.  She is an older plant that has bloomed annually with and without the benefit of the potassium dosing.  I have also tried several 3 part fertilizer regimens that are usually labeled, for growth, foliage and bloom.  I am not sure I see any difference in my plant.  A well balanced 20-20-20 should work well for most growers.

I am always open to suggestions and observations.  To add to this document or correct any errors please contact me via the contact form found under out “Contact” tab.

In conclusion:

1. Well draining growing mix.
2. Fertilize either weekly with a ½ strength fertilizer or every other week at the recommended rates for outdoor plants.  It is important to allow one week for just water to flush out salts.
3. Incorporate Magnesium and Calcium and other trace elements into your feeding program at least annually, preferably biannually.

Cathy Geraci